Fish Fry -- Classic Wisconsin

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Gangster Fish
Little Bohemia, Manitowish Waters

The infamous John Dillinger and his confederates spent much of 1933 raising hell throughout the Midwest -- robbing banks, staging jailbreaks, knocking over police arsenals at will. By April 1934, in the dreary reality of the Great Depression, Dillinger's exploits had become folklore. At a northern Wisconsin lodge called Little Bohemia, the Dillinger mystique would reach epic proportions.

Dillinger checked into the lodge with his full accompaniment of well-dressed associates: Homer Van Meter, John "Three Fingered Jack" Hamilton, Tommy Carroll, and the killer's killer himself, Lester Gillis, aka "Baby Face Nelson." Little Bohemia's owner recognized the outlaws. The owner also recognized that each man had bulging armpits, a fashion resulting from carrying .45 caliber handguns in shoulder holsters. In part by smuggling messages written in matchbook covers, Little Bohemia's owner secretly notified relatives, who contacted the Chicago bureau of the federal Justice Department.

Government agents, "G-men," converged on Little Bohemia. Chaos erupted in the freezing, pitch-black woods as agents opened fire on three Civilian Conservation Corps workers leaving the lodge bar, killing one of the men and injuring the others. Alerted to the ambush, the gang returned fire, escaped through back windows and vanished into the woods.

Virtually every corner of the globe was talking about the shootout and the gang's escape. The disaster resulted in Dillinger being named America's Public Enemy No. 1.

In the decades since, the incident has been dramatized countless times in books, television, and movies.

Visitors who happen upon Little Bohemia today are welcomed in a decidedly more pleasant manner. The lodge serves up history and North Woods charm in equal measure. A canopy of pine trees towers over the long driveway, veiling the building from the road. (Not hard to see why the secluded resort was appealing to outlaws seeking a low profile.) Placid, sparkling-blue Little Star Lake provides a scenic backdrop.

Little Bohemia still bears the scars of that fateful night. The walls are riddled with bullet holes, shattered windows are preserved for posterity. Vintage newspaper headlines cover the vestibule walls.

Though no longer a lodge, Little Bohemia is a popular supper club where diners can enjoy exquisite walleye or roast duck and gaze at personal items left behind by gang's hasty departure. The lodge bar, with its big stone fireplace, mounted animals and hardwood paneling, is a quintessential northern Wisconsin gathering spot.

Little Bohemia is located on Highway 51 in Manitowish Waters, south of Mercer. Closed off-season (January to April), the restaurant does brisk dinner business the rest of year and serves lunches in July and August. Phone 715-543-8433 for reservations.

More fish...

One fish:
What did you expect from a couple of deep fryers and a bag of frozen cod? At least they tried.

Two fish:
For a Friday night it's better than eating fish sticks on your couch.

Three fish:
Typical Wisconsin fish fry at a supper club or tavern. Involves a crowded bar and a Packers schedule on the wall (extra credit if the game scores are filled-in).

Four fish:
Member, classicwisconsin Shanty of Fame. An irresistible combination of atmosphere and fish.

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